Joe Laker, Counter 71
IN THE KITCHEN: JOE LAKER, COUNTER 71
Counter 71 is a celebration of nature from the British Isles. The rich history of farming, foraging and fishing, inspires our sense of heritage and invention. They source from growers redefining farming techniques, fisherman working harmoniously with the sea, and livestock farmers bringing back rare breeds. This way, they show ultimate respect for every link in the chain. British food history and culture is not one that is original or highly regarded. Counter 71 is striving to change that and pave the way for a new modern British cuisine.
Joe Laker is the Chef and Co-Owner of Counter 71 and invited us in to talk about a mutual belief in the craft and British produce.
Paul: Thanks so much for doing this Joe, we’re so excited to have you in the mix.
Joe: Honestly, it’s my pleasure – I’ve been such a fan for years so this was a dream come true! I found MISSING. A few years ago, trying to get clothing that matched the same ‘Made in Britain’ ethos. I loved the style and the story and I’ve been following ever since, so when I saw this series starting I was so excited.
Paul: That’s so lovely to hear, wow, thank you! And a huge congratulations to you – the space is amazing, what a location. We really love how you’ve mixed seasonal and local produce with such a bold chef’s table. And I love the décor as well!
Joe: That’s so nice to hear. Yeah, I was really keen to get the décor to be in keeping with the London roots and local sourcing values within the menu, so the sculptures are by Felicity Marshall, a London sculptor. We were looking for something that reflects both the masculine and feminine feeling of the space. A brutalist design that incorporates both the refinement of straight edges, just like the refinement in the food but also the simplistic presentation style we adopt.
Paul: Why is using British produce so important to you?
Joe: For so long I tried to define my cooking and my sense of heritage and culture. Our food culture in Britain is not an established one or one that gets praise all over the world like French or Italian cooking. It took me a long time to be proud of the country I was born and raised in and the tireless efforts of the growers, producers and farmers that battle the unpredictable challenges of the season to bring some of the world’s best produce to us. This is why it’s so important to me to use British Produce.
Paul: It can be challenging finding certain products within the British Isles though, how do you deal with this or have you adapted dishes to work with what is available?
Joe: Nowadays it would shock people with some of the produce that is available to us, it’s still very unpredictable because of the seasons but in the last year we’ve seen Okra, Peppers, Wasabi, Ginger etc all come through the door at counter 71. It’s produce that is native to countries with very different climates but through bio dynamic farming methods a way has been found to grow them in this country. We made the decision at the start of this year to stop using chocolate, caviar etc. Things that are so present in fine dining kitchens but things we cannot grow in this country. We try and find the ingredient we want, if we can’t find it we find something that can mimic the flavour, if we can’t find that we don’t use it. It’s a simple ethos but one I plan to live by.
And the hops we use as floral displays are London hops…
Paul: They’re stunning, incredible colours.
Joe: I know, they’re awesome. But it’s details like this that really matter.
Paul: I can tell, I mean just look at that marble.
Joe: That was a bit of an accident really. It was supposed to be a totally different colour, but the supplier explained the marble layers actually changed as you went through it, so we ended up with this amazing green and I just loved it.
Paul: God, how fortuitous – it’s incredible. So how did you come to creating Counter 71? How did you get into the kitchen?
Joe: Honestly, I found a job in the local Chinese and learned on the job. Taught me so much. Then I started to become more and more interested in where things came from and the impact of doing things within Britain, and that set me off looking to create this chefs table experience but reworking things that often feel outdated and British but give them a really special new life.
Paul: I can see, those turnips being peeled look like they’re going to be incredible!
Joe: Yeah, they’re going into a special one tonight. But even the way they are prepared will change so much about the perception. I love it when we can make people think differently about something they might have written off in the past. Maybe they didn’t realise how great something was because it had been cooked blandly, or overdone, just without consideration and care, so it becomes this grim ingredient of the past. I love to bring British produce to life in a way that does it justice – full of flavour and beautifully presented, that really makes people think again and teaches them something about what’s on their plate.
Paul: And there’s a real art to that, telling the story differently. So many try and fail, but you and your team do a great job of that. It’s something we try to do as well – to share all the benefits of making within the British Isles, to share just how good linen is for all times of the year and why it’s such a great material to use.
Joe: We should be grateful for what brands like MISSING, and what restaurants like ours are doing, you know, teaching people about the process and the origins of what you see.
Paul: I also think that part of the issue is the attitude of bigger businesses. In quite a lot of instances they give the impression of producing locally in a sustainable, ethical way and this is not the case. The goods are made overseas in large quantities, and the price to the consumer is similar or the same as a garment made in the British Isles. There is a lack of transparency.
We’re comfortable with what we make and what they’re worth, and as you say, it gets you at times when you’re having to justify your existence.
Joe: Oh totally – because not all industries are like that, are they? You book a plane ticket and you want something a bit nicer, you can justify booking yourself business class because it’s much nicer, but then for some reason that mindset doesn’t translate into other industries. You want to wear something that feels nice, that’s made sustainably by people who care, it costs a bit more money than something from a high street brand in Westfield.
Paul: Yeah. And you don’t know where the linen’s come from, you don’t know how it’s been manufactured, it’s not going to last – maybe a year, max. It’s so different. The jacket you’re wearing (The M02 Chili 3 pocket jacket), that’s got 18 different cut pieces of linen in it that make that one jacket, and then watching them put it together, it’s a real skill.
Joe: It’s a skill, an art, a science, isn’t it?
Paul: Totally, but it’s not really celebrated because it’s viewed as being lesser if you’re a machinist for some strange reason. It takes years to learn that skill and to be so effortless – take being in the kitchen. It takes years to learn how to cut vegetables so finely with that finesse, it takes such practice and it’s also not a cheap education – it’s interesting what society deems as valuable.
Joe: Oh totally, it’s all about who deems you valuable.
Paul: Speaking of – where do you think is worth a visit in London?
Joe: Kiln in Soho, that’s one of the ones I go back to all the time.
Paul: And what’s your favourite cuisine to eat?
Joe: I’d say Japanese. My partner’s half Japanese so we cook a lot of Japanese food. How about you?
Paul: South East Asian for me. I don’t eat as much Japanese as I do Thai or Korean, but I just love it all, it’s irresistible.
Joe: It’s all so bold in flavour, which I love. Nothing’s lacking. Thinking about it, there’s a new one that’s just opened on Mare Street I’d really like to try, Miga? I’ve never been, but it’s a family run Korean restaurant and the brand’s been going for 20 years, the Dad had a restaurant in Korea and they’ve just opened in the UK, worth checking that out.
Paul: The food looks incredible, and you can see how considered everything is – really is such a great set up, congratulations!
Joe: Thanks so much. Please come back and try it all properly, we’d love to get you back here for the proper experience.
Paul: Oh, we will! I can’t wait.
Joe wears the M02 Chili 3 Pocket Jacket, the M01 Jet 2 Pocket Jacket and the M04 Chambray Short Sleeve Shirt.
September 19th, 2024
Counter 71
71 Nile St, London, N1 7RD
Opening Times
Tuesday – Thursday: 6:30 pm – 12am
Friday and Saturday: 12:30 – 4pm, 6:30pm – 12am
Sunday and Monday: Closed
Photography: Izy Dixon